A Tale of Two Halves

[canoebees]

Here is the first part of our blog on the build of our 17' Fisher Prospector that we will ultimately split into two. We will incorporate a Solway Dory 'Expedition' sailing rig that we will mount a long way forward as it will be a downwind sail.

As you can see from the photo below, we don't have a lot of room to work with! The yard measures approx. 18' on the diagonal and is surrounded by buildings and high walls, hence the need to divide the canoe.

Yard before covering with tarp - note the high tech workbenches

Yard covered over with tarp.

Voilà! A workshop is born!

The first thing I did was sharpen all of my hardpoint tools, knowing how harsh ply is it's worth making sure that they are extra sharp. The next step was to cut out the moulds, this I did out of 6mm ply from a builder's yard, which may need a batten to stiffen them up slightly.

The five finished moulds.

For the main planks we decided to use 5 mm Elite Marine Ply from Robbins (cheapest!) The plans do state to use 6 mm, but after speaking to Paul Fisher and explaining our plans to sheath the outside he assured us it would be strong enough in 5 mm as long as the ply was of good quality.

Once the timber was delivered I lofted the plans in the comfort of my back room


No housemaid's knee for me!


Do I look like I know what I'm doing?

Out in the workshop I start work on cutting out the short planks. I marked out one set then screwed all four pieces together then cut them out rough with a jigsaw.

Short planks are only up to 10" long so four strips 10" wide were cut with a hand saw, laid on top of one another and then screwed together in the 'scrap' areas. The sheet with the plans was kept on top!

The long planks were shaped in exactly the same way, marked out and screwed together for sawing.

Roughly cutting out the planks, keeping well away from my pencil line.

Each set of four planks were clamped together and planed down to the line, ensuring that all four planks are the same. Some of the curves needed a bit of creative blade adjustment in the planes to get into the 'dips' but a small block plane came in really handy for this.

Using the bigger plane for the convex curves to remove the bulk.

Using the smaller block plane to finish off the convex curves and to get into the concave curves, followed by a quick sanding to the edges.

Finished planks.

More to follow!!

[advent100]

Hi Steve & Jo,

Glad to see you well under way now.
Looking forward to your next installment

Ed.

[canoebees]

Thanks Ed
If she turns out half as nice as yours I will be very happy

Ed how do you find the seating setup? I dont like the way they are screwed through the sides maybe I could change that somehow..

[Mike]

Oh dear, canoebees

I had to smile when I read this great little thread. Been there ... got the T-shirt. Lack of space, erected cheap plastic marquee, voila - as you say.

Until yesterday when squalls got the better of the marquee and nearly carried me away with it for my very first 'balloon' flight. Wife and kids thought it was funny! Back to the drawing board.

Incidentally, have you thought about using a good spokeshave for the concave planing? It might save you some time with that block plane adjustment.

Interesting thread. Looking forward to the follow up.

Best wishes

Mike

[Gibbo]

Incidentally, have you thought about using a good spokeshave for the concave planing? It might save you some time with that block plane adjustment.

Mike

Good point. The shape of my SF Raven was such that I could only achieve the concave lines using a spoke shave. The flatter/ convex sections, no problem with a power plane.
Gibbo.

[Mike]

Yes indeed, the old spokeshaves are useful tools, though perhaps a little difficult to control for the inexperienced.

Another way of shifting excess wood, particularly in concave sections, is to use the even older rasp. I have a nice set of three: one that is convex on one side and flat on the other. That one works very well on ply (working with it angled slightly along the wood like a plane) to remove excess before sanding. The trick with the rasp, as with all hand tools really, is to let the tool do the job rather than applying excess pressure to the work.

Anyway, hope I'm not getting ahead of my newbie status here. Just throwing in a few of my thoughts.

Regards

Mike

[canoebees]

Until yesterday when squalls got the better of the marquee and nearly carried me away with it for my very first 'balloon' flight. Wife and kids thought it was funny! Back to the drawing board.

Mike

We also thought it was very funny

I did use a spokeshave but didnt get on with it untill I worked out that you push it

Im in the spare bedroom joining the 4 part planks together right now (shhh dont tell the wife)

[Gibbo]

The trick with the rasp, as with all hand tools really, is to let the tool do the job rather than applying excess pressure to the work.

Mike

Another tool I used .... wait for it.... was an angle grinder. I used an old
sanding sheet so I could control the amount of material to be removed.
I got pretty adept using the angle grinder even to remove very small
amounts of material.
Gibbo.

[canoebees]

A WHAT!

[Mike]

Another tool I used .... wait for it.... was an angle grinder. I used an old
sanding sheet so I could control the amount of material to be removed.
I got pretty adept using the angle grinder even to remove very small
amounts of material.
Gibbo.

Excellent idea, Gibbo. I must give that a try too, though it is probably a 'finishing tool' in that it is sanding rather than being used simply to remove excess before finishing.

Thanks for that tip, though. Hadn't actually thought about it. I am using a random orbit sander (Makita BO5021 - nice and light in the hand!) for finishing. It's said to be particularly good for the strip-built technique, which is my next building adventure.

Regards

Mike

[Mike]

We also thought it was very funny

I did use a spokeshave but didnt get on with it untill I worked out that you push it

Im in the spare bedroom joining the 4 part planks together right now (shhh dont tell the wife)

I admit it was very funny - but not to he who was desperately trying to save the family's marquee!

Yup, spokeshaves work best when pushed - you cracked me up with that one! And at least you have a spare bedroom, canoebees. My family are getting fed up with eating their Sunday dinners on the floor!

What else can one do when the weather has been so atrocious?

I need a proper workshop - don't we all? But I am renting so that we can build a 70 foot (wood/epoxy) motor yacht. Have no idea where I'm going to build that yet. Where there's a will ...

Regards

Mike

[Gibbo]

Excellent idea, Gibbo. I must give that a try too, though it is probably a 'finishing tool' in that it is sanding rather than being used simply to remove excess before finishing.

With the RPM of the grinder and even an old disc you can remove an awful lot of material - get a new disc and you can remove even more. The biggest downside is all you generate is dust and the whole garage and contents get totally covered. It's noisy too. Don't forget to wear a mask.

Thanks for that tip, though. Hadn't actually thought about it. I am using a random orbit sander (Makita BO5021 - nice and light in the hand!) for finishing. It's said to be particularly good for the strip-built technique, which is my next building adventure.
Mike

I fancy doing a strip - I'll rephrase that... I'd like my next canoe to be a stripper - doh.

[Mike]

Having checked out your blogspot (and clicked on the ads as requested), I don't fancy you doing a strip, Gibbo. I too rather fancy strippers, though my lovely (in case she reads this!) wife would not like me saying so. I've bought the plans for a One Ocean Double. Can't build it yet - haven't the room. But working on it.

Your blog is great, Gibbo. Enjoyed the read. Hope to meet up with you on the water some day. You could show me your grinder and I'll show you my Makita!

Regards

Mike

[Gibbo]

Having checked out your blogspot (and clicked on the ads as requested), I don't fancy you doing a strip, Gibbo. I too rather fancy strippers, though my lovely (in case she reads this!) wife would not like me saying so. I've bought the plans for a One Ocean Double. Can't build it yet - haven't the room. But working on it.

Your blog is great, Gibbo. Enjoyed the read. Hope to meet up with you on the water some day. You could show me your grinder and I'll show you my Makita!

Regards

Mike

Thankyou kindly. I'll look forward to it.

[advent100]

Thanks Ed
If she turns out half as nice as yours I will be very happy



Ed how do you find the seating setup? I dont like the way they are screwed through the sides maybe I could change that somehow..

Thank you, thats most kind, I'm sure you will be more than happy with your end result.

seating setup is just fine, I didn't follow the plans seating height and spacing exactly and placed my additional third seat back more toward the stern.As for the screws throught he hull to hold the seats, I must admit they don't bother me personally & I'm sure you could do away with the screws because once the epoxy mix takes a hold they shouldn't move( don't quote me on that if your seats collapse )
You could always hang from the inwales or cut out and attach some ply peices like this
_____
| 0 0 |
|____|
Well, not exactly like that, but you get the idea.

Keep us informed!!

Ed.

[canoebees]

In the past couple of weeks I've been making the half-size planks, with this being a 17' canoe, each plank is made up of four parts. Two at 8'-ish and two 'bits' on the ends.


Here we'd just butt-jointed the 'bits' onto the 8' lengths and piled some weight on top with a plastic bag over and under the epoxy to stop it sticking to the surfaces, as epoxy doesn't stick to carrier bag I left these to dry overnight (don't ask about the gravel!)

I decided to use West Systems epoxy products on the advice of Paul Fisher. Having done lots of fiber glassing in the past I can safely say this is the best resin I have ever used, but a bit pricey.


Small pack size for now, just to get me going on the butt-joints.


Watching the resin dry and keeping an eye out for any marauding bands of slugs


This picture shows the cured butt-joints ready for sanding and taping. I didn't feel the need to scarf these in as I will be taping inside and out as well as applying a sheath to the outside.

The weather turned a bit unpredictable so I commandeered the spare bedroom and started on the taping.


You can see the tape ready cut to size - no need to be too accurate here as all these joints will be covered in sheathing.


This picture shows the taped seams epoxied into place and the top planks have also been sanded and 'feathered in'.


Close-up before sanding.

The whole idea of fibre-glassing is to float the tape/matting within the resin, to do this I first applied a coat of resin directly to the plank. After letting it cure for a short while I applied more resin and set the tape with more resin on top, working the resin into the tape and making sure the surface was smooth resin. I didn't pay too much attention to the seams of the tape as these would be feathered down, ensuring the finish would be smooth.


Here I have sanded and feathered the tape in, being careful not to take too much resin off the tape as this would weaken the joint. It doesn't matter too much in this case as the outside sheath will strengthen it back up. I also intend to sheath the bow/stern lockers.

Weather now glorious, I move back outside into the sun. Now that the half-planks are made, I decided to drill the holes for the copper wire stitches. The holes were placed at 200mm intervals 6mm in from the edge. I though this was a good distance leaving me the option of halving the spacings as I form the canoe.


Marking out the 200mm spacings.


Drilling 'stitch-holes' with a 2mm bit (I love these bits - I usually destroy 5 a day and buy them by the dozen!)

It's going to be a couple of weeks before the rest of my timber and epoxy supplies arrive. I'll be ordering it this week, but I suspect it'll take a couple of weeks to arrive as Robbins will need time to machine it to the right thickness (I can only do so much in the spare room!) I intend to join the half-planks a few days before my timber arrives, so I can get on with forming (this is the bit Jo is looking forward to the most she thinks she'll be the first to sit in her).

More as it develops.

[canoebees]

Ive just been thinking ahead to when I shine up the gunwale with danish oil and I need some help.
My question is where the top edge of the ply sit between the inwale and the outwale do I just oil it or will it need to be pretected with epoxy or varnish . I dont want to buy varnish just for this edge but will if I have too. What have you other builders done

[Guidecanoe]

@ canoebees :
when you do like mentioned in your post there will be exposed end grain of the plywood between inwhale and outwhale( as on my selfbuild canoe. I coated all with thinned epoxy, so i have to varnish( the old UV protection problem). Hope that answers your question

All the best

Andreas

[canoebees]

I have a uv protective hardener for epoxy on its way,so maybe that would do the job but Im not sure it will look right with the gunnels being oiled

Ive thought about doing this job in many ways including epoxying ALL the bright work with a couple of coats of varnish to finish the job off.im also not sure this will work/look right.

[Dr. Joe]

I enjoyed your blog. I solved the end grain problem by capping the plywood with two pieces of cedar. This is a close up of the finished edge. I routed one edge of the cedar the depth of the plywood to create a notch that covers the end grain. I can't describe it as well as a picture.



This is the finished boat. It was a prototype for a modest proposal I had a few years ago.


The idea came from an article about the six hour canoe. I have read a fellow wrote a book about building a piroque in 6 hours. I thought if that is possible, then a gray bearded old man ought to be able to fly into a foreign country with a minimal set of tools, build a boat of local materials float the river and fly home leaving the boat to inspire the locals to do more messing around in boats. My son and I flew to Chile and built a similar canoe in 5 days.

[canoebees]

Five pairs of planks, the middle joint was rough butt-jointed and taped on one side (as our canoe will be split at this point - when I pluck up the courage!) laid out in the back yard.



It's finally time to stitch I've been looking forward to this.



Below you can see the first pair of planks stitched together keeping the stitches loose for tightening later.



Second pair of planks stitched into place. I used 1.5 mm copper wire that I had lying around in the shed. We're both getting excited at this point - from 2D to 3D in one afternoon.




Here you can see the nice cutting edge.



The third pair in place - we're really giddy now.



Fourth pair.



Fifth and final pair in place - we're now giggling, where's the paddles? I've got to say that this was one of the most satisfying things I've ever done, I had a grin on my face from ear to ear. My hands ache from twisting the wires (expertly formed by Jo) and my back aches from bending over, but I'm so happy.

The picture below shows the copper wires have now been tightened after eliminating any tight spots in the seams. She feels firmer now.



Overhead shot of the moulds epoxied into place. I also decided to epoxy a 'T' piece on top of the moulds, slightly wider than the mould.



Here you can see I have used clamps to stop the moulds from slipping and a tourniquet to pull the hull up to the T piece to eliminate any sagging. This is not in the plans but I thought it might make things easier.



T pieces epoxied into place with a bit of 50mm tape - just a rough job.



I inserted a few blocks under the tourniquet to push the 1st and 5th planks up to the moulds, as this is where I applied a small amount of epoxy to hold them in place.



Close up of the stitches spaced at 200 mm intervals. The last 600mm bow & stern I put the stitches in at approx. 150mm as these were higher pressure areas.



Well CHUFFED!! I'm now off to Woolies for the bits to make a cheap firebox while I wait for my next delivery from Robbins.



Will update as soon as things progress.

[Mike]

Excellent! Good work. Well done.

You have every reason to be grinning from ear to ear.

Just a couple of small, admittedly ignorant, questions, if I may. Where does one sit to paddle with all those moulds in the way? Do you pare some of these away later?

Regards

Mike

[canoebees]

The moulds will be removed after the inside seams have been completed.

[Mike]

Ah, I understand. Thank you.

How do you remove them after epoxying them into place? Does this leave marks on the hull that you must work out?

Sorry to ask what may seem elementary questions, but I've never built a canoe before and I am genuinely interested in how you are building this one. I am very impressed and will certainly stay tuned to your build.

Mike

[canoebees]

I will just grind off the epoxy and clean up the planks with sand paper. I have only tacked the moulds in place with 4 strips of epoxy each 2/3 inches long, so it will be no big deal.
Ask all you like mike, thats what forums are for
I've learnt a lot from coming here, its a really good forum (a bit of a lack of a sense of humour at times)

Just so you know this is my first build so im busking it a bit allthough Im quiet a handy guy with a bit of 3x2 and the odd D I Y tool -hammer mainly

[Mike]

I will just grind off the epoxy and clean up the planks with sand paper. I have only tacked the moulds in place with 4 strips of epoxy each 2/3 inches long, so it will be no big deal.

OK, I didn't realise you'd only tacked them in place temporarily. This build is really interesting. It's the first time I've had the opportunity to watch someone use the stitch and glue method to build anything. Thanks so much for these great photos, Steve.

Ask all you like mike, thats what forums are for
I've learnt a lot from coming here, its a really good forum (a bit of a lack of a sense of humour at times)

It is an excellent forum, I totally agree. And I am learning a lot from it too. Shame about the occasional lack of humour. I thought it must have been me!

Just so you know this is my first build so im busking it a bit allthough Im quiet a handy guy with a bit of 3x2 and the odd D I Y tool -hammer mainly

For your first build you are doing amazingly well. Especially at this time of year, working in your back yard. I presume you take the canoe indoors before the damper evenings set in? I understand the object is to keep the timber as dry as possible before epoxying to prevent rot later.

I've had a lot of experience building skin-on-frame kayaks and Tornado racing cats. I have the plans to build a 21' cedar strip double kayak and will be launching into my first glass and epoxy job when I build that.

Like you, however, I have a space problem and will have to wait for that build until next year. At the moment, I'm in the process of building (indoors!) three prototypes based on the old PBK designs from my era (the 1960s). I say 'prototypes' because I have permission from the designer to modify the plans as I choose and I'm experimenting with some quite advanced covering materials.

Thanks once again for this great thread, Steve. Can't wait to see the eventual launch.

Regards

Mike

[Voyager]

Nice build Steve, I'm constantly amazed that almost every canoe builder in the UK has at least one Black + Decker Workmate! I've got two. Any advance on two?

Peter.

[Mike]

Only one, Voyager, but my one's bigger than your two!

[Voyager]

Isn't that always the case!

Peter.

[canoebees]

Well here we are again, I know its been a while but I've been busy working on my canoe for 5/6 hours a day 5/6 days a week. The amount of sanding is out of this world! My fingers are so sore but she's looking good and moving forward nice and steady.

After checking she was all level and true I applied the epoxy stitches and let it cure over night. Then I sanded down the epoxy and any runs.


Next was to remove the wire staples and apply the 50cm tape to the inside seams letting it cure overnight. (short days )


Nice view of the outside without the wire staples.


This picture show the weak spot in the middle, which is where I will split her in two later on in the build.


Removed all the moulds so I could sand the tape to take out any thick areas.


Starting to look like a prospector now
You can see the speed I'm working at due to the blur.


Forward bulkhead ready for epoxying. I used epoxy with a bit of filleting blend added for this job. I've cut a 6" hole in the bulkhead ready for a hatch cover.


Same in the stern.


Forward/stern and the double centre bulkheads all epoxied in and sanded. The small cut outs in the corners are for the inner gunnels.


A closer look at the double centre bulkheads, this is where I will cut between to make the two halves

Close-up of the sanded rear bulkhead.



I hope to be starting the gunnels as soon as the weather breaks.

[monkey_pork]

This is a great thread. I have to say I'm very inspired by it, and that's despite my rubbish woodwork skills.

I'm even beginning to wonder if I could build something ...

[Mike]

Bee .. ooooo ... ti .... ful! Nice work. Thanks for that. Now I see what you meant about the moulds.

Couldn't help a giggle when you cracked the one about 'blur'. Any faster and you'll disappear ...

I guess you intend to cut this in half to improve portability and for ease of storage?

Respect!

Mike

[canoebees]

Yes mike if I dont split her I can't get her out of the yard

Monkey-pork get some ply and start you will love it. Wiring the planks was the most satisfying thing i've ever done out of the bedroom just take one step at a time and your away.

[Mike]

Hey canoebees

I just ordered a flaming 16 foot workshop - let's see the wind take me flying in THAT!

If you live anywhere near Bristol, I'd be happy to let you use it for building your next one, hopefully without having to carve it up afterwards. Tee hee!

Seriously, my friend, hats off to you. Amazing determination. I'm a tad worried for you after your remark to Monkey-pork, though. Hehe.

Salutations

Mike

[Dr. Joe]

Tell me this is just a magic trick. You are going to saw in half this beautiful filly before the maiden voyage. I am surprised you don't create a lift to haul it over the roof. Perhaps a catapult with a pool to catch her in on the other side of the house.

I will be waiting for the next episode, what a great job. Your attention to detail will be well rewarded.

How thick is your plywood?

[canoebees]

I have no choice Dr.Joe I just have to cut her its the only way.
I could knock down the two out buildings, then I could get her out
Thanks for your kinds words, the ply is 5mm even though the plans stated 6mm.
My reason for this is:
4mm ply as 4 layers
6mm ply as 3/4 layers
But 5mm as 5 layers but I will be adding a outer epoxy sheath.

[TOPTEC]

Hi Steve,
Well done, so far it's looking great, where did you purchase your 5mm ply from? is it marine or WBP (Exterior) can't wait to see it finished
Regards
Steve

[Mike]

Hiya Toptec

I think Steve said he got his ply from Robbins Timber (Bristol - 0117 9633136) and it is BS1088 marine ply. I think Robbins call theirs 'Elite'. Great supplier. Ask for Andy Vowles, who is a veritable font of knowledge as well as a nice chap. He's toying with the idea of building a cedar-stripper himself at present.

Best of luck

Mike

[canoebees]

Hi Steve
I got the ply from robbins which is marine ply and it is of good quality.
I also got the rest of the wood for the gunnels/thwarts which was of very poor quality and had to be remachined with very poor delivery, I have rang them and they asked for pics which I sent but they have not even replied, let alone replaced. So I do recommend them for the ply but NOT for the machined wood.
I just decided to ring them again and they said they will replace the poor wood.

[Newbond]

Wow, what a great thread!

I just knew that building a canoe would be easy.

Well done, she looks fantastic so far, and we're all looking forward to the next instalment.
(I'll have to look away when you finally cut her in two)

[Voyager]

I'm just so jealous! What a shame you're gonna cut her in two! I hope she doesn't loose those lovely curves.
Can't wait to see her finished and 'on the pond'

[canoebees]

The curves will stay due to the fact I'm building her in one then split her. The shape problem would only apply if I built her in two halves.

[KeithD]

The curves will stay due to the fact I'm building her in one then split her. The shape problem would only apply if I built her in two halves.

Good thinking

[Voyager]

The curves will stay due to the fact I'm building her in one then split her. The shape problem would only apply if I built her in two halves.

Ahh! That's how it's done, thanks for the tip!

[epoxymanuk]

The curves will stay due to the fact I'm building her in one then split her. The shape problem would only apply if I built her in two halves.

Hi it might be an idea to fit your seats or a least cross members where they are going to go to prevent the hull from springing in when you make the fateful cut

[canoebees]

Hi
Rob nice to see you here
Do you know the curves will move or do you just think they might?
Have you ever cut a canoe in two?
I would appreciate your input.
Regards Steve

[epoxymanuk]

Hi
Rob nice to see you here
Do you know the curves will move or do you just think they might?
Have you ever cut a canoe in two?
I would appreciate your input.
Regards Steve

Hi Steve
they have always moved on the ones I have cut in half the gunwales try to straighten when the cut removes the centre tension, the seat frames or temporary braces across the hulls until the seats are fitted.Knees on the bulkhead help as well as over bending the gunwales before fitting after that you are in the lap of the gods.

[no1birdman]

Hi, whan i cut 1 it did spring apart,the next time i did a cut i made 2 frames on either side of the cut,thease were permanent to bolt together, it sprung apart on my methods of build more because i use the tortured ply build ,ie built round a centre frame.

[tmcox]

This is fascinating. I was planning on doing a strip build but the cost was putting me off. This looks a lot cheaper.

I do have a question though. Are the edges of the plywood angled or are they perpendicular to the sheet? The reason I ask is that where I work we have a large flat bed milling machine that was designed for large sheet material such as plywood. If I can cut the shapes out on that then all the cutting will be done accurately and fast - leaving just assembly...

[canoebees]

Hi tmcox
All cuts are made at 90 degree's this is to leave a "v" in the chines (as stated in the plans) As for the cheaper bit, well that's up you. I'm around the £750.00 at this point with a total cost of around £1100.00 when complete with the downwind sail. I,ll just need 3 paddles then

Things are a bit slow right now, i've hit a point where the idea's I have need to be planed in to the build (I can't do anything by the book )

Plus dealing with the centre tension in the gunnels and carving thwarts

On the plus side I know what I want from this canoe,so it can be built with a clear plan of the end product.

[tmcox]

Why is it so expensive? I thought this method was supposed to be cheaper.

[Voyager]

Why is it so expensive? I thought this method was supposed to be cheaper.

Hmm, I was wonderin' that too!

[canoebees]

As I posted in tmcox's thread

"You can build to any cost you like, it down to you and what you want to build with? the lighter you want it the more it will cost simply because strength and light weight are more costly.

Cheap ply £10.00 a sheet
Top grade marine ply £100.00 plus a sheet
Mine was £35.50 a sheet, less a bit of discount

You could make your seats for £5.00
Or you could spend £50.00ish each (well someone as too)
Paint could be B&Q or International perfection.
Polyester is half the price of epoxy.
Its all down to you and how much you want to spend.
At the end of the day some people have £100.00 canoes and some people have £1100.00, they all get scratched, they all paddle and they all do the job.
Me im having spokey dokeys on mine "

I never set out to build a cheap canoe, I'm trying to build a very nice canoe,if you know what I mean, a thing of class (hopefully)

OHHH Shiney

I'm not sure where to put the mess deck?

[tmcox]

Fair enough that makes sense.

With regards ply - presumably you have to coat cheap ply with something to make it waterproof. What about the marine ply?

What sort of lifespan do the various coverings have - will B & Q paint only last a year while International Perfection lasts 5? etc.

I apologise for all the questions but I'm thoroughly hooked. Incidentally are there any books that people recommend for stitch and glue canoes?

[no1birdman]

Hi, the cheap ply exterior i find just as good as marine ply.They are both waterproof to a point, but if u do not coat them they do not last long.Ronseal varnish is good or completely cover with fibreglass.It still amazes me how much some people spend on a boat but u can build a canoe or most rowing boats for about 150 tops that is if u fibreglass all the outside as well with polyester, not everyone likes it, see thread epoxy/resin.You can get free plans on here as well which cuts cost down,I have not yet met a member on here who will lend u any although most only build 1 boat. I think with stich/glue build it takes that long most do not do it twice LOL.Easy build canoe at simplcity boats.

[tmcox]

Would varnish be sufficient to seal the boat? If so how many coats? Or would a paint be better?

[no1birdman]

Hi, i give about 4 coats of varnish, if i paint i only use qd paint from bs supplies in stoke, it dries rock hard, but i mostly varnish.

[Big Bird]

I have not yet met a member on here who will lend u any although most only build 1 boat.

Not wanting to start an argument but we buy the plans of the designers with a one build licence, they are not expensive (mine were £35) and I am keen to keep supporting the guys who put in the hard intelectual work to make the canoes that we all love.

As to cost, most people seem to be around £350, using marine ply and epoxy, this requires a bit of shopping around but that is half the fun. I can't comment on the other materials but in my build i have taken the attitude that if I am going to do this then I might as well do it well and use proper materials. The problem with cheap ply is not so much how waterproof it is (assuming you coat it) but that it often contains voids, and the filler wood is not of that good a quality, no mater what wood you choose to buy it is worth looking at it before you purchase (and that includes expensive marine ply, have seen some shocking stuff).

[tmcox]

Good point about the plywood. Is there any way you can tell by looking at it?
If expensive marine ply can be just as bad then buying expensive ply to ensure quality isn't a method I would care to try

[Mike]

Good point about the plywood. Is there any way you can tell by looking at it?
If expensive marine ply can be just as bad then buying expensive ply to ensure quality isn't a method I would care to try

People who know what they are looking at can tell the difference, of course. However, I would argue that marine ply is far better because of the timber used and the quality control in the factory where it is produced. The glues used in WPB are, I understand, the same as in marine ply. The difference is in the type of wood and its quality only. An example of a significant difference is that good marine ply has no voids in the ply layering. A void in the wrong spot can cause a structural member to fail.

Nothing wrong with using WPB in my opinion, provided you accept that it is likely to last less time than expensive marine ply. Canoebees has it right. Essentially, you get what you pay for. If you want to build a pleasing work of art then it is best to go for the greater expense in building. All a matter of personal preference, of course.

For example, my very first canoe was built in Australia when I was about 8 years old. It was made from corrugated iron sheet, folded over, prised apart in the middle by a 'thwart' and closed at each end with a lump of timber to which we nailed the iron sheet. We then waterproofed it using a bitumen product. We capsized in it many times but had a ball paddling on a local swamp (lake in this country). Wasn't much fun picking off the leeches after every capsize but it was 'our canoe' and we loved it. Horses for courses, as they say. I wouldn't be seen paddling such a monster today.

Regards

Mike