Fermanagh for the soul - a week on Lough Erne
We could hear the rushing sound of water behind us from an approaching cruiser. We both paddled harder as we were in the middle of the most exposed part of the Lough at that point, and wanted to get out of the wake. I glanced round and realised that it wasn't a cruiser bearing down on us, but a wall of heavy rain only yards behind us now. Within the minute we were drenched to the core. We were both smiling like loons, we were having fun.
It was late June and we needed to decide where we were going for a paddling holiday - our first big trip. We'd put the options on the table, Sweden, Poland, France, the Norfolk Broads or Northern Ireland. We only had nine days in total, so we wanted to make the most of it. That ruled out most of them, as either travelling was going to eat into the time too much or we wanted longer to explore.
Big Al and the other NI paddlers have put up some inspiring blogs on SOTP, and having just received the Canoe Trail guide for Lough Erne we decided that NI was going to be the place. I'd never been, but always wanted to visit. We hadn't realised when we booked that it was '12th fortnight' though. It was the busiest bank holiday weekend of the year, and it was educational to see the reality of the ongoing divisions in the area. (BTW, re the flags. It seemed a bit like the gay hankie codes. 'Oooh, there's a new one, wonder what that one means'!).
Tickets were booked for the Belfast ferry and we set off at 5am on the Friday. The sea was calm, which was good, but the forecast for the week was poor. It's a long crossing, and by the time we arrived we headed straight out to Fermanagh and hoped we'd find somewhere to camp. We had the activity map for Lough Erne which showed the various jetties, so we checked some of those out for likely spots. After looking at a couple we ended up at Geaglum jetty, which looked as though it had recently been nicely landscaped and furnished with picnic tables. There was some nice flat ground, it was quiet, so up went the tent and on went dinner. That night we were treated to the non-stop sound of a nightingale singing its heart out. Simply wonderful.
Saturday saw us on our way to Crom. We'd not been able to book in to the campsite because it was so busy that weekend, but the staff there were very helpful indeed and were happy for us to leave our car there for the week while we went off exploring the islands.
Crom (old) castle ruins. Two castles burnt down accidentally. I think it was an insurance job.
We got the canoe loaded up with a few basics for a single night and went off to find a camp. We just had a simple setup, a tarp and a fire. What more could you ask for? The weather was starting to get a bit wilder at this point and I had to set the tarp quite low to shed the wind and rain. Still with toes toasting and the kettle on, all was well with the world.
Sunday. Loaded up with the week's supplies and set off. We weren't quite sure where too though! We had hoped to join the guided tour around Inish Rath, the Hare Krishna island, but we were too late for that. Paddled by the island anyway, and decided to stop at the jetty. There was a group of young asians there, and the young woman asked if she could have a go at paddling, and we were happy to oblige her with a quick paddle round the jetty while she had her photo taken.
Had a bit of a walk in the grounds and were invited to join the tour just as they were serving some food. We felt a bit guilty, but also quite hungry as we'd skipped breakfast, so we tucked in with gusto. They have a lovely setup on the island, with poly-tunnels, many, many beehives etc. Very friendly people indeed.
After the early morning sun, the wind started getting up, and showers rolled in, a pattern that continued most of the week. We paddled on, passing Trannish. We were wondering whether to camp there, but there were so many jetskiers buzzing the area, and it was so exposed to the wind at the time that we dug in and carried on. GB at one point was wielding the paddle getting ready to whack one of the jetskiers if they came too close.
We had a recommendation to camp on Naan island, but when we had a look we weren't impressed. It was very damp, covered in broken glass and other litter, so we decided to move on.
Saw a couple of other canoes that evening in the distance. I was surprised how few people in canoes we came across, only five in the entire time we were there.
After a long haul, various forays onto other islands, including one (the horror, the horror) that would make the Heart of Darkness look like Butlins, we decided it was too late and we were too tired to carry on, so we made for the closest decent camping spot we could see. It wasn't ideal, but it wasn't half bad either, and the view of the lough from there was stunning. Crawled into my sleeping bag and was fast asleep within seconds. Later that night, I got up to have a pee and the moon was hanging in the sky directly in front of the open tent, reflecting on the water and shimmering through the reeds. Another magical night.
Woke up realising just how dehydrated we'd become the previous day. We'd paddled for eight hours or so, and clearly not drunk enough. Many cups of tea were needed before normal service resumed. The sun was shining as we loaded up our things to find somewhere less exposed. We only paddled for 20 minutes or so and found a perfect spot. It looked as though it had just been vacated as there was a fire still smouldering. It seemed that the sun was again losing its daily battle with the rain clouds, so I set up the tent quickly and brought some of the gear ashore.
Unfortunately at this point we had to make an unexpectedly urgent trip to the mainland. The rain had started, the wind was rising, and we'd a fair bit of open water to cross to get to Knockninney jetty (which seemed our best bet). It was a bit of a battle in the exposed parts, but, GB is a good map reader and got us there by the most sheltered route possible. Still not helped by the bloody cruisers who just don't seem to notice us at all and charge past at full speed leaving us bobbing about trying not to take onboard more water than the heavens had already unleashed upon us. (They aren't all like that, there were some very courteous people, but it's the idiots that stand out most).
We retreated somewhat wet but elated to the Hotel there. Despite being quite grand, they didn't bat an eyelid when we walked in, soggy, smelling of woodsmoke and somewhat disheveled, and were most friendly. We succumbed to the menu and had a bookmaker's sandwich each along with copious large pots of tea!
Returned to camp feeling most satisfied. Put up tarp and got the fire going.
We decided Tuesday was going to be a rest day, not least because the weather was following the same pattern as the previous day. We spent it leisurely making bread (pan breads and a loaf baked in a billy), drinking tea, reading and generally trying to dry the gear out from the previous day. We saw the warden sniffing around the bay, but he didn't seem interested in us (we were keeping a low profile though).
A day's idleness was enough for us before we got restless, so we packed up and headed back towards Crom again. The decision was helped a little by GB having some pet horseflies who were intent on drawing blood. We'd decided to spend Thursday, our final day, playing; trying out self rescues, poling etc, and Crom seemed a good place to do this from. On the way we saw some local hoodies who looked as though they were waiting for us to fall in.
At one point we could hear some very odd noises, like very loud moaning and groaning, coming from a house on the mainland. We couldn't quite place it. Then we heard something a bit like peacocks, but it clearly wasn't. (Inish Rath, some way across the Lough, has peacocks). Then it changed to whistling and went quiet. GB reckoned it was a parrot. We whistled battling banjos and got a whistled response. We were disappointed that after 5 minutes we hadn't been able to teach it the tune though. We thought it might be quite amusing for any subsequent canoeists!
We wanted to explore some of the other areas, so we called in at a few places along the way so we could get to know the area a bit better. We certainly know a few places not to go now anyway. It rained on and off all afternoon. It was at this point we heard the cruisers approaching from behind, only to be drenched by the rain. When we got to Crom, we found we weren't the only ones, some sea kayakers had been caught in it as well (and looked equally soggy too).
(an attempt at an SOTP shot, which I understand is obligatory. Crichton's Tower in the distance.)
That evening the rain had stopped, the wind dropped and the water was as still as glass. It was such a wonderful evening that we just had to get out paddling again, despite having being on the water all day as well. We decided to explore further afield and made our way up Woodford River. Words can't express the beauty of being there with no-one else about.
Sometimes I just sits and thinks, sometimes I just sits.
We returned near midnight, and saw a cot [local longish flat boat] in the distance near our camp but it made off before we got close.
Woke up at 5am to see the figure of a man standing in the reeds a little way off from our camp. It was the two blokes in the cot from the night before. I think they became aware of us after a few minutes and took off. Very odd, were they poaching?
Spent the day on, in and sometimes under the water. Trying out various rescue scenarios etc. All I know is that I've a lot more practising to do!
Decided to drive to Enniskillen late in the afternoon to get the other canoe trail maps from the tourist office, but unfortunately they only had the Lough Erne one. Couldn't visit the canoe centre there as apparently you have to phone to arrange a visit if you're not coming by canoe.
Returned and paddled off to look for a camp spot for that night. Headed for one we had in mind and found a fisherman standing there, so we paddled around until he'd gone.
That night we watched two deer moving silently through the woods. I'd seen the slots earlier, so was hoping to see something if we were quiet enough.
The final day we packed up and did reconniassance for future trips. Took a look at the The Blackwater (Cream tea at the Argory), Lough Neagh, the River Bann. Spent the night at Slemish Mountain (where St Patrick tended his sheep).
Took home some wonderful memories and experiences. Found that the area really got under our skin, (sometimes all-too literally...)
There is no doubt whatsoever that we'll be back. The thing we valued most was being able to get away from the crowds into nature, something that's getting harder to do. We met some lovely people out there, and have so much beautiful water and countryside to explore. I'd like to thank all the NI paddlers who've shared their trips on SOTP, as their blogs and suggestions were both inspiring and informative for our trip. It's also important to recognise the efforts of CAAN and CANI who have put a lot of hard work into the canoe trails and making areas more accessible.
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Truely excellent blog with photos to match.
May the gentleness of morning, greet your silent passage through endless waters...
