Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 60 of 115

Thread: Escape Pod

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default Escape Pod

    New project for 2016 – didn’t know how to title this thread; devil finds work for idle hands? Every man has a plan that won’t work? – The fools at it again??

    Well hear goes, suggestions and comments as always welcome –

    The brief: Trailer based single person micro camper / canoe transport.
    Internal accommodation - full sized single mattress (comfy and snug - getting old), comfortable seating for one, cassette loo, table, storage, lighting, ventilation, heating.
    Services – 12v/24v/240v system – battery, solar, generator inverter controller. LPG refillable tank (cooking/heating), LED lighting inside and out, water tank pumped cold/hot, and a fridge
    External – fold out kitchen – cooker, sink, canopy, and shower/washer
    Other bits – tv/radio, sat internet node think, CO detector, storage for stuff
    Max dimensions – 1.43 m wide (so I can get my bike past it down the drive – yes arbitrary requirement but I don’t want to move trailers every time I want to go for a ride)
    Height- Just less than 2.1 m with canoe on top [so about 1.65 m ish] so that it will fit under the barriers that seem to be appearing across carpark entrances
    Length – well here I can be quite flexible as the chassis will be a custom job.
    The whole think needs to 450kg or less as that is the axel rating (I know a man with a weigh bridge) I have a budget for bits but like most of the things I build the majority will be scavenged and repurposed or built myself. I have done some drawings but as the scanner wont talk to the PC at the moment they will have to wait till later but I have made a start – an old trailer tent has been donated by a friend,



    this when reduced to it’s component parts has provided a Rack



    a base frame



    and a rolling chassis



    and some canvas (possible canopy or future baker tent material)



    all the metal work is the wrong size so I have been at it with the gas axe - some is rotten and needs to be replaced and the whole thing is not long enough - still trying to figure how/if I can hang the m'cycle off the back - Er.. heads - ride bike/paddle, tails - paddle / ride bike please don't make me choose



    this may yet be scraped as I am playing with ideas at the moment and sourcing materials



    I intent to have a steel chassis and a wood framed structure twin walled and insulated all round, top and bottom, I need to lower the floor in one corner so that there is enough space to step rather than clamber in – it will be clad with Accoya (been using it in construction some time very dimensionally stable weather and rot resistance (treated somehow) looks good strong and light) – I know it is going to be tight for space and may take some time but its this or buy a camper (got nowhere to store a camper).
    Updates as they develop, Er or if the scanner talks to the PC ever again - steve

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Cairngorms
    Posts
    125

    Default

    Great, looking forward to following this.
    ---------------
    'If human beings were shown what they're really like, they'd either kill one another as vermin, or hang themselves'.
    Huxley

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    London
    Posts
    1,124

    Default

    Good luck with this - looks interesting.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Cumbria, UK
    Posts
    723

    Default

    Will it come back out again past that little shed?
    love these sets of projects btw.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    thank you gents - knowing someone is looking over your shoulder always helps things move along a bit, however this will be a long slow process as I need to do things half properly (structurally, electrically and LPG/gas etc) - still cant get PC to agree that the printer is also a scanner
    the little (extremely full due to the mild winter wood store) shed needs to find a new home but it's a bit rotten and I know it will fall apart if I try to move it (and I don't want to make work for myself) so am working round it at the mo.

    spent most of the day reorganising the garage - moving woodworking kit to the back, wont be needing that for a bit and getting out the metalworking stuff - the chassis is the first bit to do, steel, cutting disks and welding wire ordered - my drawings will appear when I work out how to replace the printer drivers on this windows 8 thing.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Wiltshire
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Good luck with your project Steve......it makes me want to get out with the MIG welder!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    St Neots Cambs
    Posts
    87

    Default

    I've been thinking about a similar project myself. Along the lines of a teardrop caravan, but I want it to be more box shaped, so it doesn't look like a caravan.

    Good luck with it. I shall watch with interest.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    St Neots Cambs
    Posts
    87

    Default

    .........Some good ideas can be had from America with their Ice fishing shelters;

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxUZYDZyY9Q

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Thanks Robmac that's cool - underwater fish camera?..Er external CCTV? can you plug a usb webcam into a tv usb slot and see camera view? .

    the steel hasn't turned up, they said it would be today! - I am going steal lots of ideas from those teardrop caravan things - some of the fold out things are good, they do look nice but a square box just has more space (and I hope will be easier to build).

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    St Neots Cambs
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Sit and Relax View Post
    Thanks Robmac that's cool - underwater fish camera?..Er external CCTV? can you plug a usb webcam into a tv usb slot and see camera view? .

    the steel hasn't turned up, they said it would be today! - I am going steal lots of ideas from those teardrop caravan things - some of the fold out things are good, they do look nice but a square box just has more space (and I hope will be easier to build).
    I might see if I can find a caravan breakers to scavenge some parts (windows etc). I would also like to make some sort of small pop up roof, that would be great to keep travelling height down but still have headroom on arrival.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Wiltshire
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Rather than a caravan breakers, what about a scrap camper??? Don't forget that if you want to put anything on the roof a pop up may be a problem......

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    St Neots Cambs
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tankosl View Post
    Rather than a caravan breakers, what about a scrap camper??? Don't forget that if you want to put anything on the roof a pop up may be a problem......
    Yes, good idea. They often come up on Ebay as do scrap caravans. Pop up not a problem for me as I would use an inflatable with the camper.

    I actually have a motorhome at the moment, so this project needs to be kept quiet from the missus, sort of on a 'need to know' basis!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Wiltshire
    Posts
    22

    Default

    "Need to know' basis.........strange, I have a few like that.....when I bought my inflatable the first my wife knew was when she saw the package in the hall way!!!

  14. #14

    Default

    http://www.fyneboatkits.co.uk/kits/o...ardrop-camper/

    Not sure if you guys have seen this, but food for thought if you're handy with stitch and tape building.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    St Neots Cambs
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kneiling1 View Post
    http://www.fyneboatkits.co.uk/kits/o...ardrop-camper/

    Not sure if you guys have seen this, but food for thought if you're handy with stitch and tape building.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the link, and although I am building a simpler box shaped structure, this has given me some great thoughts regarding waterproofing and weight saving.

    I will look further into this, thanks again.

  16. #16

    Default

    No worries, i shall be watching on to see the developments, I need to build a stitch and tape canoe before I start on any more extravagant builds.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Tankosl - Let me tell you a story about boys toys and the lengths that some have been known to go to legitimise the accumulation of stuff – and it goes somewhat beyond the normal ‘I’m just looking after it (a bike usually) for a mate” line. It involves a Mr A and Mr B (names have been changed to protect the not so innocent)
    Mr A wanted (sorry read ‘needed’) a new shiny gun (but it cost was way above the normal threshold of acceptability) nevertheless it was purchased (using the secret credit card, you know you have one) and deposited with a friend for safe keeping. A cheap mobile and free pay as you go sim was also purchased and an advert was placed in a free adds paper for the gun at a ridiculously low price, now here is the stroke of genius – the paper wasn’t for his area but for the area his wife’s mother lived – a visit was made together with cat in carry case, newspaper in bottom of carry case was replaced (as per normal, water spills on journey) with the free adds paper and all returned home. The stage is now set…at prearranged time (Mr B with mobile on) cat carry case was cleaned and advert noticed by Mr A in plain sight of his misses “look at that, I always wanted one of those, how olds this paper?”
    Mrs A “do you need a new gun?”
    Mr A “it’s a bargain, I’m going to call anyway”
    Mrs A “how much is it, if it’s not too much and it’s still for sale I’ll get it for you for your birthday, it will have gone that papers weeks old”
    At which point I understand Mr A nearly blew it by laughing.
    Phone call was made answered and surprise surprise the gun was still available a meeting was supposedly made and the deal done, and his wife gave him £150 (unknowingly towards a £900 gun) everyone happy, Er except Mr B that took some collateral damage– his girlfriend came across the cheap phone and on turning it on found apparently dozens of phone calls (all unanswered) from a couple of number over about 6 weeks that took quite a bit of explaining, Er I digress…
    Steel Arrived
    I need to order some more - I have had to change the design as after doing some measuring, some thinking more measuring and a bit more thinking I have noticed that the thing about micro campers is that they is small and that means that there is not a great deal of space available inside to put stuff – particular batteries, water and gas tanks, so I have had to increase the internal volume without increasing height and width - the result is that I need to lower the floor in more areas than just the footwall initially imagined – printer now talking to laptop so my sketches may convey more of the ideas I have been considering (apologies for what looks like the working of a drunk spider) .












    so here is the current plan - top what I have and below the direction of travel for the chassis


    Anyway
    I have made a start – cut one bit of angle (before I was told I was a noisy
    menace and made to stop), couple of issues have arisen – have I got enough
    space to do this in the garage? and am I going to be able to physically move
    the thing about as I add more steel to it (it pretty heavy as it is at the
    moment) - I fear the answer to both is a definite maybe not




  18. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    was allowed to make some noise so cut the top bits of the chassis extension - welding now before I can cut out the unwanted bits of the original chassis, should make good progress this weekend (Saturday is noise day - they can hear me over the racket of lawnmowers, blowers, shredders etc)


  19. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Redcar on the North East Coast
    Posts
    497

    Default

    Hi Steve
    perhaps a bit of diagonal bracing would be beneficial, just a thought.
    chestnut Bob

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Made some progress, it’s hard to express the pleasure that can be derived from a bit of fabrication, it just smells right.
    All ready to start



    first weld not too bad (it has been a while), it can only get worse (Er.. and it did, no pic's sorry buts that’s what grinders is for).



    Original chassis extended and modified, front under-bed storage box and foot well/door opening formed – waiting now for more steel to complete a similar box at the back


  21. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    found a bit of time to do some welding underneath



    but now I have run out of welding wire, so more waiting for Mr Ebay to deliver some more.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Nr Ipswich, Suffolk
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Fantastic reading so far Steve...keep up the good work.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Burton
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Not sure if its the done thing to post links to other forums (its not a canoe one) but there are many great build threads on http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...ition-Trailers which might give you some ideas of what is possible.

    Looking forward to seeing how this progresses!

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Cheers dunc - lots of good ideas there - I don't get the attach it all on the outside thing though? I am pretty sure if I did that I would find Er. stuff missing! so all stuff inside for me is the plan - hence the storage space being built into chassis.

    made some progress today, formed up the rear lower box.



    it is getting quite heavy now, turned it on its side to get at the awkward welds



    wheels/ suspension off (they must weigh 30kg) to make it light enough to turn on its back to form up the last middle storage box - started cutting the last pieces and found activities curtailed by the noise police again



    plan for tomorrow is to finish the middle box, do a bit of fettling (grinding and tidy up some welds) give it a coat of primer and a couple of coats of hammerite, so I can store it outside then have a good long think about the slightly more complicated top bit.

    All this steel has significantly stiffened up this chassis, if I stand on/in one corner - the foot well - I was only seeing about 1.5 cm deflection on the opposite corner - the middle box when completed will bridge between the front and back boxes ( I couldn't make one continuous box as the suspension axle was in the way) and hopefully stiffen it more, so I am hoping the diagonal bracing suggested by Bob will not be required - we will have to see?

  25. #25
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Redcar on the North East Coast
    Posts
    497

    Default

    Hi Steve, was thinking that the main draw bar strut looked as though it would suffer from a bit of torsion and would be better braced with diagonal struts either side.

  26. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Bridgewater Canal, Cheshire
    Posts
    1,541

    Default

    A few years ago Steamerpoint made a low camping trailer that kept within the car roofline (to reduce fuel consumption) and had room to sleep inside and store the trailer on top. He brought it to a few Open Canoe Sailing Group meetings. It was very practical and quite stealthy as it just looked like a small box trailer so he could get away with parking it in places a caravan would be noticed.

    Its a big thread and there may be useful stuff in it for you, he also used a camper as the base unit.

    http://www.songofthepaddle.co.uk/for...e-Trailer-Idea

  27. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    chassis is just about complete - and don't she look nice in a quick coat of metal anti corrosion primer
    I could really have done with some help - passing stuff, holding stuff, generally helping me keep track of tools as it was all getting a bit messy and crowded and lifting and turning - as it is definitely heavy now (I can just about dead lift it at the balance point - so I guess 70-80Kg?).

    I will have a think about bracing - I have used bracing previously on braked trailers (where there is a potential resistance to any turning moment) - twist along the centre line of the draw bar is allowed (with in reason by the tow hitch) so no resistance will be encountered (so no induced stress) the turning moment from towing will not be resisted unless one wheel is restricted more than the other (so possible off road / potholes) I am minded to strengthen the extension I have current put in as it don't look right (and in my experience it if don't look right it generally isn't).

    I need to weld some strips (still awaiting delivery) across the larger floor section (for strength) and some brackets to fit the superstructure uprights and probably a bit of stuff to make the opening smaller and provide something onto which to mount the door frame (still a design in process)




  28. #28
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Norfolk
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Love this thread! Great work, I'll be following!

  29. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    right ok, stop going on - I've fitted some diagonal bracing - after reading Steamerpoint thread and seeing that you all bullied him into doing the same thing



    I put some old board for a temp floor and put a chair in for scale and rigged up some sticks to show the overall height - the bed will be on the left hand side - the chair I build will have to be smaller than the chair shown - space will be tight.



    view from other end



    next job is to seal the floor, have to do this now because when I start to do the top I wont be able to turn it over to get to it.

    anyway it is pushed to the side for a bit, while I think about exactly how I am going to do that.


  30. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Cheshire
    Posts
    556

    Default

    Great thread, keep it coming, looing forward to seeing this develop.
    Mike

  31. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Midlands, UK
    Posts
    2,138

    Default

    Feels like a great ChittyChitty BangBang build. Looking forward to seeing it develop!.

  32. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    South Wales Valleys, UK
    Posts
    446

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Sit and Relax View Post
    thank you gents - knowing someone is looking over your shoulder always helps things move along a bit, however this will be a long slow process as I need to do things half properly (structurally, electrically and LPG/gas etc) - still cant get PC to agree that the printer is also a scanner
    the little (extremely full due to the mild winter wood store) shed needs to find a new home but it's a bit rotten and I know it will fall apart if I try to move it (and I don't want to make work for myself) so am working round it at the mo.

    spent most of the day reorganizing the garage - moving woodworking kit to the back, wont be needing that for a bit and getting out the metalworking stuff - the chassis is the first bit to do, steel, cutting disks and welding wire ordered - my drawings will appear when I work out how to replace the printer drivers on this windows 8 thing.
    Before you push the scanner button the the printer, load up the scanner software on the PC.

    Nice job on the trailer.
    All the best,
    Richard
    Retired bushcrafter now happy camper

  33. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    North Notts
    Posts
    388

    Default

    Grrrr. Now I want to build a trailer.... I have no room for a trailer!!! I'll just have to be content following this and chugging on the old pipe of dreams. 😊

  34. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    thank you all for looking, Er.. while I continue to think about how to seal the bottom I have started to think about some of the detail's for the top bit, I have been collecting potentially useful bits and pieces for a while with this build in mind and these are the working parts from a 12v cooling box and will form the basis for the pods fridge.



    at the rear of the pod the chassis form two boxes (20x22x60cm) nearly a foot cube on each side - one will house the batteries - I recon that I can fit two 110amp hour deep cycle batteries in one (vented to the out side, and sealed to the inside - duct tape) and the fridge will go in the other.

    the fridge will be formed out of insulation board two side also forming part of the walls and the same insulation on the inside and forming the bottom and lid, the fan will vent into the storage behind the fridge, I would like to vent this to the battery box to provide some positive pressure to encourage any gas to go outside (I am more used to ducting that you can stand up in but its the same principle, not sure that the fan would be up to it though, a pc fan might do it but I think that they would be the wrong voltage? 5v ?) - I will poke the cooling bit (I have no idea how this works? I understand how electricity makes heat - resistance and all that - but cold? give me the reversed Carnot cycle every time - now that I can understand! - sorry one for all you thermodynamicsts out there) through the insulation and attach an alloy bar/plate to the inside to spread the cold about a bit .

    look frost - MAGIC!



    after 10 min it was -5 Deg C



    I poked about with a multi meter on the circuit board to try and determine how much power was being consumed - and I must admit that I am none the wiser got reading for amps from 5 to 27 (yea yea I know you should leave electrickery to experts - but how hard can it be?) trying to work out charging current required to run fridge from battery via solo panel and sizing the panel, the power supply says that it supplied 5amps so I assume that the fridge cant be drawing more than this - what suppose I don't know is will it draw more if more is available i.e. connected direct to battery?

    next I need to think about water (Er..heavy and wet) a tank will have to go in somewhere - probable at the other end to provide some balance and somewhere else is needed for the gas bottle (I don't want it outside, does it have to be outside?) - am I building a bomb?

    the detail combined with such a small space is proving Er challenging. lots more though required.

  35. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    SW Ohio USA
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Enjoying this thread, and looking forward to following it to completion.

    No electrical person I, but have some experience with solar panel systems in our truck camper. Does that reading spike for a while when you first turn on the fridge, or at intervals when the internals of the fridge kick on for a while? That might give a competent electrician (not I) something to work with...

    We use a propane fridge. The electrical draw to run it is about .6 amps. Draw is measured from the battery with an amp meter, for accuracy. Just a thought...

    Good luck with the build.

  36. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Er.. no pictures camera lost in the mess – I think that I have finished the welding, I have added some brackets (predrilled) to attach the superstructure uprights and door frame to the chassis and have added some bracing across the bits of the floor areas that will see some weight (foot well / entrance, and battery compartment), picture when I find camera – so just ramblings while I await the inevitable dad taxi call about 3 this morning.
    I spent a year in the timber merchant this morning – could not have been more unhelpful , but I managed to come away with some casement to make the frame – (to be quite honest there is not much point in opening a timber merchant on a Saturday morning if you have no intention of selling any wood because you won’t let anyone look at your stock because you don’t have enough staff to open the yard and even if we could get our hands on some stock there is no one to operate the saws (and they wouldn't contemplate letting me have a go myself - rude) – Grrrr! – should have gone to B&Q would have been just as useless but would have been hours quicker) - so I will get on with the frame tomorrow, not much else I can do until I get some more materials and stuff – I will share with you my shopping list with notes on status
    Steel and welding wire, and new tips £190 so far, as I have made this for me I haven’t skimped, unlike some brought trailers all seams are fully welded (not just spot) and I have used 50x50x3 angle- likewise the alloy floor not cheap but it will last
    Metal primer (pot of) £12
    Insulation – 50mm wall insulation, got it (left over from garden office build)
    Chassis external floor – 2mm Aluminium checker plate (cut from 1.5 x 3 m sheet – on order from allco, being cut to size awaiting phone call to collect £128)
    Internal floor, walls, ceiling, bed base, shelfs and storage – ply – need to order/get from B&Q
    External walls/top – cladding – this is proving to be difficult and expensive if I don’t want to use knotty pine? – Still exploring options
    Lights – interior and exterior, 12v LED’s – still looking, i want some brightness adjustment, and physical adjustment (and I don’t want to spent too much)
    2 deep cycle 110a/h batteries – I have one, need to get another (I assume that if I am connecting two in parallel, (I only want 12v circuit- 24 is just an added complication) I need to use two batteries that are the same?
    Solar panel and battery charge controller (100w?) – still looking
    A 240v consumer unit, sockets, switches, wire, connectors for domestic system – still working out what I need
    A 12v consumer unit, wires, fuses, switches? Something to protect the 12 v system it will pack some amps? – Best do some reading.
    Water tank, pump, switch, pluming, tap, filling connection and level indicator (can I heat water with 12 v?) – Still looking – cant find anything just the right size
    1500w inverter - 12v to 240v – got one, just need to think how best to wire it into the system.
    Generator petrol.240v & 12 v charging (but actually produces 19v) got one - just need to think how best to wire it into the system (and thing about where to put it, I don’t want it inside it smells, I no like)
    Hinges and locks – still looking
    12 v fan for ventilation, and some ducting and some external vents – still looking
    Window, skylight, porthole? – There is too much choice and too much potential cost – may have to make my own window
    I will need some varnish, filler, grab adhesive, silicon, screws, bolts, and new tyres (they have been ordered – waiting for a price), a jockey wheel and a support stand and a mattress
    Heating - to heat or not to heat – 12v or 240v electrics – it’s such a small space a hairdryer should do it? – can I run a gas fire if ventilated (with co2 monitor)? or will I die? I am sure I have been in caravans with gas fires
    Gas – I was intending to plum in a permanent system but space is getting short so am a bit undecided – it is also not cheap to install LPG but is cheap(er) to use - may just stick with the little normal canister stave for a bit while I think about it more.
    What else? – Er.. Canopy – to pull out over door and kitchen unit – these are expensive so am considering options.
    I expect there is more I have forgotten but I will update list as and when and tally the cost (if you promise to keep it between us – what happens in the garage stays in the garage).
    Suggestions more than welcome,
    steve

  37. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    SW Ohio USA
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Another note, if you don't mind - using an inverter significantly increases draw on the battery. Consider living with 12v. Heat? Propane RV heater. Have you estimated how many amps you are going to use a day, with all those electrical devices? It adds up. A 100 watt panel will realistically provide you about 5 amps per hour during good direct sunlight. I've know experience with 240v, so I don't know how much the batteries will draw from it, per hour, while charging. 8 maybe? Have you considered using the alternator on the tow vehicle to recharge the batteries while the trailer is being towed?

    Batteries dont have have to be the same. Both should be new. Running a new and old lowers the capacity of the new one down to the level of the old.

    if I'm sticking my nose in too much, let me know lol. I took your 'suggestions more than welcome' seriously. We take off in our camper for months at a time, and it took me a lot of learning and making mistakes, on providing power to the unit.

  38. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Bad News – had to go give a bottle of wine and apologise to my neighbours – apparently I ruined their weekend by making too much noise, smoke (it was only a little fire, don't weld over old oil stained cardboard) and smells (what's not to like about welding?), Er I wanted to mention there regular cremation of corpses in their stinky bbq, overuse of starting fluid and the bloody racket of their hot tub but apparently it is me in the wrong – least I got rid of that nasty bottle of Rosie my sister gave me for Christmas – go figure worlds full of wits…I don’t even want to think what goes on in that hottub (but would have to climb a tree and look over the fence (again) to find out.

    Good news – found camera – chassis finished (apart from jockey wheel and rear prop stand, Er and a couple of small pieces I need to weld in after I have fitted the alloy floor plates) - looking good in black.



    I have fitted a rough frame to the chassis (the uprights are at the max outside height if I am to keep under 2.1m with canoe on top) so I can better visualise the space. Assuming 50mm insulation in the roof I have 114 cm between top of chassis and ceiling, if I want to be able to sit up in/on the bed I need at least 90 cm (3’) above the mattress so I can have a 24 cm thick one (how thick are mattresses ?) space is tight! compromises compromises – storage space mattress thickness and headroom – what is more desirable?



    look what I found on ebay it says hot – do you think that means it heats the water as well (yes I know it will be crap and only work once)?

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2015917589...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    seraphim - thanks, I don’t know exactly what I want the 240 volts for, I have an inverter that mainly gets used for the laptop running from the lighter socket it don’t get much use (have used it to run a grinder drill / other tools/lights when out and about ) if I incorporate it into the pod it will get more use, a bit of TV maybe or a hairdryer based heating system or electric hot water heater (electric blanket?) and I will then have it available for other uses (foot spar?)
    I appreciate what you are saying about the car charging system (and will invest in new batteries, if that the right thing to do) but don’t at the moment fully understand how it all connects together, the normal towing plug just runs the trailer lights, the other plug on the back of the car (I have never used it) with the white cap I presume provides a 12v supply while the engine is running? For the fridge but I don’t think it supplies a charging current - the cables are a bit small ?(my car alternator don’t run all the time, it only runs if it detects that the car battery is low so I don’t know how that will work with a second battery attached?



    for the battery I will have a number of charging options, car alternator, solar panel , 240v supply (from home, a camp site, from my generator – running a charger or from the generator DC output 12v (19v measured – that can’t be right?) what I need to understand is how to connect it all - I was going to just connect all the various charging option to the battery and then take care to not run more than one at a time (but the solar panel will run all the time – some panel controllers seem to accommodate this but some are not that clear). – more reading I guess and a call the Hyundai to see what that plug they fitted does (as it defiantly don’t run the trailer lights, the plug don’t fit – they said it was for a caravan, also If the battery is under load (the fridge) will it charge? I also don’t think that my battery charger will like the current draw of the fridge (its tiny compared with the 240/12v fridge power supply that will provide 5amps 68wats at 13.6 v?) - like all stuff in the difficult pile i will have to put that to one side for a while.
    A general question (Er not that i will admit to have done it) is it acceptable to run a generator (suitably secured a trailer) while towing the trailer to charge the batteries (the generator makes a racket and I can’t hear it when driving along (oops)? – with the canoe on top the solar panel will be shaded – just slightly more than a thought.
    Anyway on with the build – can’t do much until the floor plates turn up, so started looking at the insulation



    made a little jig to help cut 45Deg edges



    Improved the jig a little (addition of plate to hold saw flat)



    sort of worked – this doesn’t have to be too accurate – all wall insulation will be glued/sealed with expanding foam so all gaps should get filled.



    Er..what else.. oh yes new tyres ordered (£44 each fitted 6 ply 450kg rating) should be able to get them fitted later in the week when the floor plates are ready (ordered, being cut) – they are on the same trading estate (that good planning - which is noticeable by is extreme rarity).

  39. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    floor plates, now I know that this is very much a case of square peg in square hole but (and I new it would not be simple) this was Er..difficult - there was just enough flex in the alloy to make it fit through gaps that were plainly not big enough (ok obviously just big enough) - but I don't think that these plates are coming out again - al least not whole)




    but in the end all fitted



    wheels are off, with the tyre fitters, apparently the rims are two small for the tyre machine and have to be done by hand (read go away and dont come back until tomorrow) off to screwfix now (they have shut my local B&Q?) for some silicon gap filler adhesive stuff to seal stick the floor plates in and some expanding foam to stick/fill the insulation board gaps - just seems a shame that I will cover the nice shiny plate with insulation - I have lots of little bits of plate to cut to go around the wheel square (well its not an arch yet) before I start the gluing - job for the weekend.

  40. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Burton
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Fantasic work!

    One question - Are you not putting any insulation under the floor? I know heat rises but would imagine you would get a lot of condensation on the cold floor surface of the floor in the morning?

  41. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    ER..well I have sort of been busy but not much to show for it, plating/sealing the pod chassis has proved to be a rather more long winded onerous and painful (those things on the grinder that always get in the way , Er yes them guard things – don’t take them off) activity than initially envisage so in-between things this week I have been mainly measuring, cutting, bending, bashing, fitting, grinding, refitting - small funny shaped bits of plate.

    all finished now and so have started gluing them in.
    Improvised bending Jig (pieces of angle and a hammer)



    some of the bits that fill the gaps



    I could do with some more space



    getting a bit heavy to move - I want the bottom finished so I can put it on it wheels (now back with new tyres + the new Jockey wheel -£18.99 ebay)



    to get the plates to sit flat against the frame I have had to grind some of the welds flat, which was a pain as they then needed to be painted with undercoat and hamerite (that both had to then dry - this was taking and absolute age) - I will trim off the excess sealer when completely cured.




    I have been gluing, sealing the plates in using a roof lead sealing compound – I wanted something that would remain flexible (the plates being stiffer than the frame, and thermal expansion etc and if hard adhesive was used it will crack and leak), adhere to metal -seems good, I went for grey – as I thought it would match the alloy (fail), and it had to be weatherproof, UV stable, and waterproof – so it seemed like the right stuff, however this sort of inevitably means that it is natural curing (read very slow) and has little grab – Er.. meaning that when you turn it over the plates you put in yesterday fall out , anyway final bottom plate glued (again) - should be cured in a couple of days and can go on its wheels

  42. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    I purchased a trug thing (£12.70)



    I cut it in half.



    stay with me now - I removed the handles and cut a square hole offset in the bottom of each half (to fit round the axel).



    and I have two mudguards



    fit quite nicely in the hole, needs a bit of trimming and some fixings - considerably cheaper than standard mudguards (that would not have fitted in the hole anyway) maybe something I should have considered before making the frame? - but this gives the wheel more cover than the standard ones (they don't come down below the axel) and should divert the majority of the spray kicked up from the tyres.




  43. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    St Neots Cambs
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Hi Steve.

    Might not be a problem, but is it possible that the 'Trug' might be a bit too flexible? I would worry that the wind resistance it puts up may push it back against the tyre.

  44. #44
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Robmac - yes Trug thing is v flexible but sort of works to my advantage here - round peg square hole? something has to shift - I made 4 small clips/brackets to hold the bottom corners (I have pre-drilled a small hole for a self tapper that will go through bracket and trug when finally fixed)



    I have cut some slots in the trug to go in the bracket



    its all a bit squashed, I have trimmed it a bit but wont do the final shape until I have finished the cladding (and got it to all align or be hidden) - the flexibility has allowed the odd shape with little stress anywhere, and the trug is well and truly jammed in place and the self tappers will stop it moving - I will probably fill the void between trug and frame with expanding foam (later) and hopefully it wont be going anywhere.



    the trug is only to stop spray the primary weatherproofing is the frame and the plating - that goes all round the wheels



    the rest of the chassis plating is finished - its all 3mm alloy checker plate (bottom, front rear and round wheels, with some exterior 6mm exterior ply on the sides, except the battery box that is /will be all metal (cause they says so, Er and ventilated to the outside - holes already drilled) and I have started fitting the insulation


  45. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    St Neots Cambs
    Posts
    87

    Default

    That should work. I'm enjoying this thread immensely, and getting some great pointers.

    Funnily enough, I plan to use a trug as a makeshift shower. I have a 7.5 litre kirtley campfire kettle to heat water, probably using my woodgas stove. I reckon with 7.5 litres of boiling water and 7.5 litres of cold mixed in, I can stand in the trug and ladle warm water over myself with an old saucepan! With appropriate screen of course!

  46. #46
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    the receipt for warm water is 1/3 boiling 2/3 cold (my long gone Nan told me that when I was about 6 -always worked for me) have you considered a foot pump in trug and shower head on pipe?

    I finished cutting and fitting the insulation onto the chassis - all lined



    except the battery box



    next job is the fridge/cooler (because it will be hard to get to later) and then water and electrics before I start on the top bit - I fear that progress will slow somewhat now as I don't have a particularly clear understanding of how all the bits will need to fit together, Er.. I don't think that the designer of this is giving due consideration to the poor sod who is having to build it, will have to have a word Er.. have I been spending too much time in the garage?

  47. #47
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    St Neots Cambs
    Posts
    87

    Default

    I've got one of these somewhere;

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automo...ing+12v+shower

    They work pretty well. I also have a 12V battery booster/starter which would run it which I could quite happily take in the canoe or the pod.

    My plan is to make a box with windows and a bed basically! It may even end up as 2 boxes, one slotted over the other, but which I can slide up and lock to give full headroom. I will probably need steadies on the trailer though at full height.

    Paraffin light, camp stove and coolbox will be the only equipment.

    Luckily I already own a motorhome, so really this is just a project for me. The mrs wants no part of it!

    Thanks to you and your Nan re water ratio!

  48. #48
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Scotland's wet west coast
    Posts
    86

    Default

    We used to use one of these in our caravan:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pump-Action...BC/ref=sr_1_22

    Or something similar.

    River Vole

  49. #49
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    St Neots Cambs
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by River vole View Post
    We used to use one of these in our caravan:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pump-Action...BC/ref=sr_1_22

    Or something similar.

    River Vole
    Yes, I've seen these before and heard good reports.

  50. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    thanks for the suggestions guys. while I continue to think about water and electrickery I have started to construct the fridge (er. depending on temp reached cool box) if I don't get any noticeable cooling I have another old cool box to cannibalise (though fitting that element as well is - and providing cooling- will be somewhat more of a challenge), I will fit and run the one for a trial to see what temp I get.

    anyway starting with the donor cooling element and fan



    I have excavated a void in a piece of insulation and cut and reformed the original cover






    some wood was glued in for something to screw the fan to and the cooling/heat exchange passes through the insulation to the cool box side



    I've formed up a lining from alloy sheet (the holes should match those in the end of the cooling element) - I made some small brackets that fit down the sides of the element and then fit against this plate (no picks) to I hope help transfer additional cooling from the element to the lining? (why wont that work?)



    fitting it all in is a bit awkward, I need to make a bit of ducting to route air flow but it all seams to align with the vent holes in the chassis



    I going to get it all fitted - plug the gaps temporarily with tape - cant glue with expanding foam until I know I wont need to move it again as that will be a one time only action (and I wont do any final gluing until I know how every thing fits together) - and then run it for a bit, hope fully before the weekend, to see if I have to junk the whole idea and result to relying on ice packs .

  51. #51
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    a new shiny thing of immense functional beauty turned up from magic ebay land today (30 Ltr water tank £39.99) - don't she fit nice? (almost like someone had thought about it as opposed to splendid serendipity; er...



    well it does fit nice if I were to ignore fact that it interferes with the bit of square drain pipe I was using to duct the air from the fridge heat exchange into the battery box



    I have asked myself the question - do I need insulation between the water tank and the outside/floor? it add 50 mm to the height and a tank full of water is a pretty good heat sink - I think not as it will simplify matters considerably - I have also decided not to put insulation under the air duct either (as its connected to the outside it would appear pointless?) so have removed some insulation and started to modify the drainpipe/duct to fit behind the watertank


  52. #52
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    a couple of hours hear, a couple of hours there



    thought I had better prove the concept, so mocked up some ducting and put the rest back together (again) - Er..what else was I meant to use? it is called Duct Tape?



    the drainpipe/duct is now below floor/side insulation and blows into battery box (there is actually smoke coming out but I could not photo it)



    I fitted 'ears' to the cooling element, I hope that this draws more cold from the element and spreads it around better



    these ears have been attached to the cold box lining



    - the hole thing slide onto the element and then secured by the 4 screws (inside face)



    all the fridge bits made, time to glue it together and seal all the gaps - I will cut off the excess foam (horrible stuff) when it dries



    once you have started with the foam you have to use it up so I liberally sprayed it about and filled gaps and sealed joints then left it to dry as had to go with a mate to move a boat - can I talk about that here? - its sort of boaty






    - all this fuss for a fridge and at the chandlers (at the boat yard) they had a make your own fridge kit (for a price)



    with a little compressor and evaporation panel



    I am not saying that I would buy one for that price but it is another option if this don't work - cut and shut job on an old fridge (how hard can it be)

    anyway had a interesting day out, move yacht from boat yard (Bristol docks) to berth in Portishead following a mast replacement - we needed to lock out and use the tide - cause it runs faster than the boat will motor and sailing is a none starter through Avon gorge - I took some picks - they had to swing all the bridges for us (tall mast) - got caught in massive thunderstorm in the middle of the Severn (no picks - was battening hatches - scary) on the right tide the tidal Avon would be an interesting paddle if anyone would like to do something different (no I am not suggesting venturing into the Severn - just the Avon?

    leaving ables boat yard



    bridge 1 - we had to book these as swings as it stops lots of traffic



    bridge 2 - plinsoll bridge (the A38 due carriageway main road - and it takes ages)



    locking out (er.. the Avon is a bit muddy)



    bridge 3 - cant remember what this one is called -bridgy McBridge Face?, seems to have a hat on at the moment



    bridge 4 - M5 avonmouth bridge



    just about to exit the avon into the Severn and the storm clouds are approaching



    it all gets a bit industrial at avonmouth



    we had 4 seasons in 5 minutes - in the middle is a large Ketch (they looked like they were working very hard) and the storm is just about to hit approaching from the right



    clouds (nice)



    coming into Portishead marina



    Little Boat - Richard is teaching me to sail (in exchange for agreeing to bossed about and shouted at)



    Er.. right Coffee and back to the job in hand

    foam dry and clamps off



    switched it on (fingers crossed - all this expanding foam bit worried it will have expanded into the works) but condensation is forming so cooling of sorts must be happening I will put a top on and let it run -see what happens.


  53. #53
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    fridge working so time to tidy up - need ducting better than cardboard, kitchen provided er.. materials (B&Q was shut and I needed to get on)



    surprisingly nice material to work with (I think the numerously repeated heat cycles must add to its ductility) doesn't split, easy to cut, bends nicely and hold shape and not springy - may go to Tesco next time I need some metal plate and look at the baking trays (probably cheaper than buying small steel plated from B&Q?) -remembering to scratch off the none stick if gluing



    mounting for the circuit board



    secured with hot glue (its an insulator so circuitry now effectively 'potted' - hopefully increased protection from any moisture))



    circuit block and ducting to outside




    and all tided away under some insulation (don't want to hear the fan running) - how that it is all sealed there is considerable air flow into the battery box.

    so water next, ho hum more waiting for deliveries.


  54. #54

    Default

    The Peltier type fridge you are using is far simpler hence the lower cost but will use more power for the same cooling effect as a compressor style fridge as you saw at the Chandlery. The Peltier type fridges can also struggle when outside temperatures are high. I had a caravan freezer defrost during a 35 degC day once (Peltier unit)

  55. #55
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    thank you Itdepends - so its a Peltier type fridge heat pump thing then, looked it up read about it - none the wiser still don't understand how it works, which is a good thing as I feel no compunction to fiddle with it to try to get more cooling out of it.

  56. #56
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Did a bit more tin bashing





    finished lining the fridge (well the lining - lid to follow)



    time to get on with the superstructure, its getting a bit crowded I needed to move some stuff around and make some space



    wood tools rescued from the dark end of the garage



    materials and parts have been turning up all week ,



    cost? – Er.. I don’t want to look too closely, this lot, the solar panel (still somewhere in delivery land) some wood, fasteners, and more alloy plate for the fridge probably
    amounted to a Monkey.

    best get on with it today as the sun has made a rare appearance today and I can work outside

  57. #57
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Finished the frame - made the corner and routed a recess for the internal panels



    put the canoe on top to check the overall high will be below the required 2.1 m





    it measured in at 2 m 9 cm, I so I think I will shorten the uprights by 1" to allow for the top/roof and the bar/pads to support the canoe - adjusting the uprights now is easy - later not so.



    time for some pluming



    well I set it all out, measured, measured again - procrastinated , measured again and rearranged all the bits and market it out and measures twice again, had a cup of tea took dog for a walk, came back measured again and then started cutting holes.





    and cutting other stuff (probes longer than tank is deep)





    bits in - filler, supply (blue tube will scavenge from the lowest corner - if I tip the trailer a bit) and level indicator



    fitted in chassis with pump and accumulator - fitted on the piss to afford easy access to connectors and valve (pressure may need to be adjusted/checked)



    internal bulkheads next, then the electrics.

  58. #58
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    too much risk of rain to collect sheet materials (internal bulkhead and lining - M/HDF and ply) it has to go on roof rack or trailer and it will just warp if it gets wet so little progress just did some work on the frame - door posts in



    solar panel and controller got delivered 100 watts (apparently - we will see, I will put some meters on it when its all connected up) £109 (ebay) - after way to much reading lots of looking at little labels on the back of stuff, estimation of usage, as well as size and cost all being considered I took a leap of faith and got what I got, still not that confident that it will be enough - I can apparently just daisy chain other panels in if needed - none of the suppliers were that impressed by my plan to (more than)half cover it with a canoe - so I am thinking about a sliding bracket that will allow it to be pulled out (when stationary)


  59. #59
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Bit of pleasant weather (well not raining) so went to get some more material B&Q and had the sheets (internal panels, main bulkhead, bed base and bed support andinsulation (£180 ish) cut to size

    Assembles the end panels



    I put the side panel in as well to check that that fitted and then varnished the frame bits

    I have however run into a problem – and this is worth considering if you do something similar – the biggest sheet material (that you can get without a lot of fuss and expense) is 8’ by 4’ (L)2440mm (W)1220mm soif you need a sheet say for the roof that is bigger than this you are er .. fd– I also need a sheet bigger than 4’ in both dimensions for the bulkhead - joins need sealing and strengthening – no like so having a think
    Laid the bed out to better imagine the space – this will beabout 3-4” higher (er and flat) to increase storage underneath (need hinge so it will fold)



    I really need to get on with the wiring there is lots; towing/driving(largely scavenged) 240v system (cannibalised camping power thing), charging (solar,240 mains and generator), 12 v system (lights, sockets, fridge, pump, ventilation,tank level, heater, volt meter) - do you think if I leave it all out in the garage overnight the elves will make it all better ?(electrics are among my least favourite activities)






    Father-in-law had a rummage in his shed and gave me thislovely volt meter (I have calibrated it against my Fluke, old but still functional) this I think is much nicer than a digital one – just need to find a button to operate it) – this has caused me to consider the internal aesthetic/style, current thinking is a cross between Gentleman traveller’s private members laboratory and Er old man’s steampunk disorganised shed/80's squat .


  60. #60
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bristol
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Frame back together and temporally fixed with hot glue and tape – I am not permanently fixing anything until I know it will work/fit etc. So on with the bed and internal bulkheads



    the bed (small single mattress size) boards with white tape hinge are 12 mm ply supported on 3 rails bolted to the chassis – will fold up when I find some hinges – is fixed at it's final height now
    The bulkheads (internal walls) are 18 mm ply, bolted (drill bolts/roofing screws) direct to the chassis and are very stiff and as well as dividing the lounge from the kitchen (ha ha) will add to the overall rigidity, help support weight on roof and generally give me something I can put screws into –it’s a bit flipping heavy though.
    A bit more shaping



    Basic internal structure (held together with tape)





    the storage / kitchen side – storage some of the spaces will be sized for dedicated stuff like a generator and BBQ – stuff I know I want but don’t want ‘inside’, the kitchen bit will need a bit more thinking about


Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •