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Thread: Leeboard help please

  1. #1

    Default Leeboard help please

    can any one help. i want to make a freeboard, i would like it to be simple if at all possible but it would be great if it was secure, the BCU handbook shows a pic of tying it on but it dosen't look that sturdy. pictures would be really very helpful and any advice would be great.
    thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    I'm guessing what you're actually thinking of is a leeboard for sailing upwind. Solway Dory would be worth a look for ideas, and they sell leeboard clamps too.
    'Of all the paths you choose in life, make sure some of them are wet'

  3. #3

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    thanks for that amelia, it is what i meant have you or any body else used the tie on to a thwart style. and does it need a lead weight on it.

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    I used a clamp on leeboard. I believe the major disadvantage of a throw over one (which will need a lead weight) is that whenever you tack you need to change the leeboard to the other side of the boat. If you make a clamp on one that's long enough it can stay on the same side.

    Having said that my only experience is a load of research then making all the sailing kit. I took it out once, but it was so much faff I gave in and bought a cheap dinghy instead

    The Open Canoe Sailing Group site would be worth a look, and they have regular meets etc.

    I've changed the title of the thread to entice some people who actually know something about canoe sailing to come in
    Last edited by Amelia; 15th-October-2008 at 08:20 PM.
    'Of all the paths you choose in life, make sure some of them are wet'

  5. #5
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    Default

    I use both throw over tied to thwart and a 'proper' job. (not at the same time!)

    My throw over does not have a weight in it and does not seem to need one.
    I use a strap which is easily adjustable for length as this can be critical to get the board to sit snuggly.
    If it wasn't for the rain in our lives there would be no rivers. X 2

  6. #6
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    Default leeboards for sailing

    Adam
    Your requirements of secure, sturdy and simple are hard compromises to make. A board tied on with a bit of low/non stretch cord or webbing can be made to work quite well, depending on its adjustment and the shape of the outer part of the gunwhale (the outwhale) - if it provides a definite lip and you can adjust to nestle the top edge of the board under it, then the board can be quite secure.

    As Amelia said that type can be a bit of a faff, especially if tacking a lot on narrower stretches of water. Whether or not you can get away without a lump of lead let into the foot of the board depends on how buoyant the wood is and a few other factors such as boat shape and how good/large your rig is.

    Clamp-on leeboards work much better and are easier to use but involve more kit. Solway Dory stuff is great - simple and functional but may be more kit than some people want to carry - you pays your money and takes your choice!
    There is some used stuff up for grabs on http://homepages.rya-online.net/ocsg...and_wanted.htm





    Try and get to one the OCSG meets if you're interested in sailing your canoe - you'll see a variety of how things can work.

    (By the way if you haven't already realised I wrote the chapter in the BCU Handbook)

  7. #7
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    I was chatting to Adam about this the other day, the only canoe sailing I do is downwind because of the faff and extra kit involve with a leeboard, but just got to thinking this morning.....

    Has anyone tried making a clamp that uses a deepwater paddle as a leeboard? If it could be done with a smallish, relatively light clamp it would be far more appealing to me as it would be more in keeping with the improvised versatility of my boat.

    I could see the round section of the paddle shaft being a problem, but could always make a paddle with a short section of the shaft square in section so it wouldn't rotate in the clamp.

    Just an idle thought.

    Enjoy your trip if you haven't already left mate.

  8. #8
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    I have a throw-over leeboard

    Since my boat is laced, I tie a tight-ish loop of rope on each side of the boat, on the inside of the hull, between a couple of the lacing points. The board then goes through this from inside to outside, horizontally. Then, when it hits the water, the force of the water pushes it down into a vertical position, which holds it very securely against the hull, in a vertical position (as it moves from horizontal to vertical, this tightens the rope loop).

    It seemed a bit random at first, but actually the reason I've not gotten around to making a proper pivoting board yet, is because this arrangement works so well!

    Hope that made sense!!
    The Canoeist's prayer: "Lord grant me the serenity to walk the portages I must, The courage to run the rapids I can, And the wisdom to know the difference".

    John Muir Trust - Wild Places for Nature & People.

  9. #9

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    i was out today and any thing other than down wind i just got slid down wind. i have an endless river solo sail, when going down wind it was great really quite fast (but i didn't get scaredlol.) what sort of dimensions would i use to make a leaboard, and how big should it be amelia i think i'm right in saying you have the same sail, can you offer any advice on size or could you please send some pics, that would help so much. could any body tell me if saarlaks idea would work because that sounds great.

  10. #10

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    when and where do the ocsg meet, i'm based in the north east but have car will travel

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    Using a deep water paddle in a plumbing tubing pipe, then a slot at the top and bottom - to hold the blade sqr and lock the t/spoon handle from twisting may work.

    Size ? 2 or 3 ft sqr should do judging by sailing dinghy size. Wave sailers don't need or use them.

    Nick

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by adam rawlings View Post
    i was out today and any thing other than down wind i just got slid down wind. i have an endless river solo sail, when going down wind it was great really quite fast (but i didn't get scaredlol.) what sort of dimensions would i use to make a leaboard, and how big should it be amelia i think i'm right in saying you have the same sail, can you offer any advice on size or could you please send some pics, that would help so much. could any body tell me if saarlaks idea would work because that sounds great.
    I do have the same sail, and I'm afraid the advice that I got was that it wont sail upwind even with a leeboard because the sail shape is wrong.
    'Of all the paths you choose in life, make sure some of them are wet'

  13. #13
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    Default

    My leeboard is a mirror dinghy rudder. that has been removed from its tiller and cheeks

    its just bolted through a hole in the hull drilled under the gunwhale to line up with the hole in the rudder. its dead centre (ish) along the hull to ensure it is parallell to the keel line of the boat

    I have also reinforced the hull at this point with a plywood block.

    Then with a bolt 2 big washers and a wingnut job done.

    it works mostly fine but could be bigger
    Last edited by teespaddler; 16th-October-2008 at 07:24 PM.

  14. #14
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    Default What wood?

    What's the best wood to make a leeboard out of.
    The one I have at the moment is made from a bit of an old softwood shed. I found it far too buoyant as a throwover leeboard, but it reasonably OK now I have a bracket.
    I need to make a more refined one sometime but I'm not sure what's the best material. I'm guessing marine ply might be least prone to warping.
    Paul

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul C View Post
    What's the best wood to make a leeboard out of.
    The one I have at the moment is made from a bit of an old softwood shed. I found it far too buoyant as a throwover leeboard, but it reasonably OK now I have a bracket.
    I need to make a more refined one sometime but I'm not sure what's the best material. I'm guessing marine ply might be least prone to warping.
    Paul
    I have made them of ash - though the ones I have now are made of surprisingly thin marine ply.
    The perfect canoe -
    Like a leaf on the water

  16. #16
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    Paul, Exterior ply should be fine for a leeboard, as it will be small enough so you can pick out a piece of ply with no 'voids' or other imperfections.

    I am also the owner of a rare 'wipe-clean' rudder stock - made from an old kitchen unit!!
    The Canoeist's prayer: "Lord grant me the serenity to walk the portages I must, The courage to run the rapids I can, And the wisdom to know the difference".

    John Muir Trust - Wild Places for Nature & People.

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    Default leeboards etc

    Adam - I've pm'd you about the Open Canoe Sailing Group and our meets - for anyone else there's a link in my sig and in one of the posts above to our website, where there is a page of our events programme - Ullswater 25th & 26th Oct is our last meet in 2009.

    I've tried using a large paddle blade as a leeboard - chopped up an Ainsworth and made a mount for it that hooked onto the gunwhale - the shaft wasn't really stiff enough and the area wasn't really large enough to be good enough to cope with a decent sail area, but it might work for one of the Endless River-type toy sails. Whether such a set up will actually be made to go upwind in any worthwhile way remains to be seen, but my hunch is not - you might as well paddle unless you have much patience or want a change from the drudgery of upwind effort.

    The best foils are made by laminating strips of suitable wood, ash can be used but others such as used in paddles would be fine too. If you can get a nice bit of ply then that can work but even "marine" ply,depending on source and manufacturer can be poor in quality with voids - and exterior can be much worse. It's harder but not impossible to get a decent finish on it as well - smoothness and efficiency are closely allied - you wouldn't use a paddle with a surface finish that's as rough as a very rough thing but some people seem to expect great performance from a bit of poorly executed DIY and then when it doesn't work very well they blame it on sailing itself rather than their botching of kit or inability to use it very well!
    I'll stop before the rant gets really out of hand! Come to a meet and see what a canoe can be made to do under sail...
    Last edited by windorpaddle; 17th-October-2008 at 11:18 PM. Reason: Adding a bit more

  18. #18

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    i'm going to wait for the 2009 dates as soon as you know would it be possible to PM me or post them on here. but i'm really interested in comming along it'll give me an idea of what i'm looking for next time.

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    Will try and remember Adam but the programme may not be fully sorted till the new year.

  20. #20
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    Default a belated entry

    The rig I use is simple enough. I shaped down a large piece of Pyrhana pine which was part of a stairway. It is a heavy bit of wood so needs no weight, and adds a lot of stability to the canoe. I put four holes in it for lashing, two near the top, and two level with the keel, then lashed round the hull. I can rig it up while afloat no problem and it won't move.



    Pete.
    Ryb An Avon.....

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by adam rawlings View Post
    can any one help. i want to make a freeboard, i would like it to be simple if at all possible but it would be great if it was secure, the BCU handbook shows a pic of tying it on but it dosen't look that sturdy. pictures would be really very helpful and any advice would be great.
    thanks in advance.
    If you are interested in a lee board I have one for sale that clips on to #the gunnel
    Thank you

    John O'Connell
    -------------------------------------
    O C Outdoor
    Web page www.occuk.co.uk/outdoor
    --------------------------------------

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